The best of Paris Men’s Fashion Week Fall 2022
This season’s Paris Men’s Fashion Week brought us new silhouettes, reminding us of timeless styles and how much we all miss a certain fashion visionary.
Here are our picks of the best men’s clothing at PFW
Véronique Nichanian’s creations for Hermès men’s fashion oscillate between seduction and class. All 43 iterations of the Modern Dandy graced the Fall 2022 catwalk in lambskin and croc, cashmere and, interestingly, nylon. Explosions of chlorophyll green, Hermès orange and crimson on sweaters, balaclavas and jackets invite the desire for materiality and the exploration of all things physical, so relevant at a time when the digitization of luxury brands is increasingly ubiquitous.
Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby’s Fall 2022 menswear collection for GmbH bears the name “Talisman”, a proclamation of Isik’s love for his Ottoman roots. Although this is the brand’s most formal collection to date, Talisman has tailored an apologetically erotic appeal. Excellent tailoring – never restrictive, but incredibly flattering – was met with thigh-high boots that revealed short strips of bare thighs between the end of the cuffs and the start of the jackets, styled with GmbH’s signature carefree attitude. Isik and Huseby, meanwhile, continue to explore the details of the wrap collar, this time in a less erotic and more decorative way.
Your eyes didn’t deceive you, Jean-Paul Gaultier’s signature infrared chest print made an appearance on Glenn Marten’s Fall 2022 show for Y/Project at Men’s Fashion Week. The tribute was timely, given that Martens will take on the role of a former creative director for Gaultier’s collection to be showcased during the upcoming Couture Week. Back to AW22. The range plays on provocative extremes with nipple graphics (take that, Instagram goons), messy necklines and, as always, a sharp cut. Knitted balaclavas in electrifying colors delve into a greater depth of surrealism, while casual crop-tops introduce a subtle patina of himbo-ness.
Kim Jones’ one-man show as Dior‘s 75th anniversary approached was a celebration of the House’s now iconic canons: Gris Dior, Dior garden (so often interpreted and reimagined by Maria Grazia Chiuri) and, of course, , the Mizza print. The banded seam, so characteristic of Jones, has been replaced by loose silhouettes with even more layers. It was tempting to see Lady Dior’s traveling cannage leather on jackets almost as alluring as the flower-embroidered sleeve-like cuff details.
Rick went to Egypt, everyone! So, naturally, Rick Owens’ fall 2022 men’s collection, presented at Paris fashion week, is full of references to old memories, stripped down to pure forms. The silhouettes reflected dystopian utility, as one would expect from Owens’ enfant terrible – however – it was the headdresses that stole the show – the headgear evokes the sense of sacred relics of temples and tombs Egyptians visited by the creator himself. Although the focus of the collection is outerwear in nylons, furs and leathers, Owens, as always, balances the austerity of down jackets (some with attached face coverings) with a tasteful amount of skin.
The Louis Vuitton Fall 2022 menswear collection was the culmination of Paris Menswear Week and the pinnacle of the late Virgil Abloh’s innovative and authoritative approaches to design. If one were to organize the timeline of all of Abloh’s shows for Louis Vuitton, one might see the purest manifestation of the designer’s “ironically detachment” approach. Masterful tailoring embraced jewel tones accented by satin and velvet, while a myriad of quirky accessories played off the collection’s light tones (though ultimately a memento mori). In the whirlwind of colors, textures, references both comical and cynical, the angels who descended the runway at the end of the parade to the standing ovation were the metaphor for Abloh’s painfully short but hard-hitting triumph.
This story first appeared on Prestige Hong Kong.