Maurizio Pisanu on high complication timepieces and the latest Gucci caliber
Gucci’s first line of high complication watches gives an incredibly fashionable twist to fine watchmaking. Maurizio Pisanu, global managing director of the house’s watches and jewelry, talks to Prestige about Gucci’s timepieces and latest caliber in an exclusive interview.
In 1972, Gucci entered the history of watchmaking by becoming the first luxury fashion house to launch its first Swiss-made timepieces.
Almost 50 years later, the house continues to design timepieces manufactured in the world capital of watchmaking, La Chaux-de-Fonds. Assembly, diamond setting and quality control take place here, while Gucci’s Fabbrica Quadrant factory in the canton of Ticino creates dials by combining technologically advanced methods and traditional craftsmanship. Gucci’s watchmaking headquarters in Neuchâtel is the meeting place for the house’s watchmaking expertise.
To mark its centenary this year, the world’s largest producer of luxury fashion watches is making its debut in fine watchmaking. Why did it take nearly five decades to house? Maurizio Pisanu, Global Managing Director of Watches and Jewelry at Gucci, explains: “After the successful launch of our fine jewelry two years ago, it was natural to enter the world of fine watchmaking. This project started before the pandemic, however, during the development months when execution was taking shape, we were amazed at the accomplishments and couldn’t wait to reveal them.
Designed by Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele and to be launched later this year, the 33 new premium four-line timepieces are a fusion of the house’s distinctive eclectic Italian style and expertise. unmatched Switzerland. However, beyond the striking tourbillons, moon phase creations, jumping hour movements and exquisite gem-setting designs, it is the new caliber GG727.25 that is in the spotlight.
This is Gucci’s first movement, developed and produced in the movement manufacture of its parent company Kering in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Pisanu explains: “Our first in-house caliber, the GG727.25, is a real technical feat and a new step for Gucci. Different teams were involved in the design process, which took about a year, and we are very proud of the result.
Housed in the new Gucci 25H watch, the ultra-thin self-winding caliber (just 3.7mm high) refers to important digital symbols: “7” encapsulates a sense of completeness; “2” represents balance and cooperation; while “5” symbolizes curiosity and freedom.
In addition to viewing the timepieces in the Maison’s fine watchmaking and jewelry boutique at Place Vendôme in Paris, they can be viewed on Gucci.com and inquiries can be made through your local Gucci customer representative. Here, we discover the new creations of each collection.
Playfully named after Michele’s favorite numbers, the Gucci 25H watch with a 60-hour power reserve features clean, sporty lines with contrasting finishes. Its slim 40 mm case allows the unisex watch to be worn like a second skin on the wrist. Chic, versatile and timeless, the automatic timepiece is available in steel and pavé diamonds, as well as two tourbillon variants in platinum and yellow gold. Pisanu admits to having a soft spot for the model: “The highlight for me is the Gucci 25H Tourbillon in yellow gold. We have always been fascinated by the tourbillon because it is such a complex micro-engineering piece. It is a bold and sophisticated combination with the clean and sporty design of the watch.
Five exceptional eclectic designs make up the G-Timeless range. A nod to the Gucci garden, the G-Timeless Dancing Bees is a fascinating creation with bees moving around the dial. Presented in a 40 mm tourbillon version, the model is available in white or yellow gold, with or without bezel set with diamonds on an alligator strap, as well as two pieces of fine jewelry on bracelets set with diamonds. In addition, the Dancing Bees automatic model is offered in a 36 mm and 40 mm white gold variant with a bracelet set with diamonds.
Pisanu adds: “The G-Timeless Dancing Bees Tourbillon collection is a perfect combination of Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship and Gucci elegance. It is a remarkable technical creation with a complex mechanism, where each bee seems to dance on the dial with each movement of the wrist.
If you like ornamental stones, there are three G-Timeless Automatic 38mm creations that feature a yellow gold case with the bee motif on a unique malachite, onyx or tiger’s eye dial. Michele has incorporated his love for celestial iconography into a trio of 40mm G-Timeless Moonphase models that feature white gold bezels set with diamonds and mother-of-pearl dials. Finally, the G-Timeless Pavé automatic in white gold dazzles with a dial adorned with diamonds.
Made from precious materials, each Grip timepiece is equipped with a jumping hour movement module triggered to advance every hour towards a minute disc that runs through 60 minutes. This technology is creatively expressed on the new models in curved openings on each dial, allowing for a clean and readable digital display.
Precision cut and shaped by craftsmen, hard stone dials in black hawk’s eye, malachite and tiger’s eye adorn three new 38mm gold creations in yellow or white gold. Shining with a row of 44 baguette-cut diamonds, the fourth Grip design, made entirely in yellow gold with a brushed gold dial engraved with the house logo.
The 40mm Grip Sapphire offers a futuristic vibe with a fully sapphire crystal case. Four colors are offered for the line’s bold fifth edition: transparent, blue, green and pink with an embossed transparent rubber strap.
(All images: Gucci)
This story first appeared in the June 2021 issue of Prestige Singapore.