Dior unveils its fall-winter 2022 women’s collection which speaks as much of the past as of the future
Dior’s fall-winter 2022 ready-to-wear women’s fashion show was held in the heart of Paris at the Jardin des Tuileries-Bassin de l’octogone. In the purest Dior fashion, on the theme The next era, the space was covered from top to bottom, left and right with burgundy adding a mysterious aura. And on all four walls were large black-and-white photographs of women with stacked eyes, wrapped in a gold frame. For the French house, it was a collection that integrates the present and the future, bringing simultaneity and synchronicity.
With plenty to take in in terms of designs, cuts, fabrics and details, there is still something for everyone. In attendance were American actresses Yara Shahidi, Ana Taylor Joy and multi-award winning singer Rihanna. The iconic Dior Bar jacket was made in black and matched with a black pleated skirt – and was also made in grey. According to the house’s notes, the jacket “has been revisited by the creative director [Maria Grazia Chiuri] for this collection, transforming the structure of the original model into a system that regulates the body’s humidity and warms it. This design technology was made by D-Air lab, an Italian start-up founded by Lino Dainese in 2015, but it was Silvia Dainese, an architect who led the special project for Dior for D-Air Lab.
A trench coat included silver designs embroidered on the back. Long poncho-inspired coats are eye-catching. Looking at the collection, it is clear that the Chiuri has drawn on the codes of the house, “revealing an extraordinary construction system” of Monsieur Dior’s garments.
The skirts in the collection are remade in fabrics borrowed from the masculine side of the House, such as greyness. Chiuri has incorporated embroidery into technical knits, waterproof materials, nylon and cashmere. Pieces in the collection have been designed to be worn in combination or on their own, evoking a versatile and enduring way to wear fashion. And the Roger Vivier pump for Dior is revisited with embroidery.
The Next Era was envisioned by Italian artist Mariella Bettineschi, who conceptualized a gallery of large-scale portrait paintings of 16th century women.and at 19and centuries in an instillation of art. “Their cutout and stacked eyes challenge the judgment that has conditioned – and still conditions – women past and present. performative relationship between the body and the garment in a technical, aesthetic perspective, in a succession of operations associating forms, know-how, materials and futuristic technologies”.
With this collection, Chiuri is able to look back on history while seeking to create the uninvented with the lines of tomorrow.