Dior returns to the real world catwalk with a textured show – 104.5 WOKV
PARIS – (AP) – Dior ventured into the real world on Monday after more than a year of absence, with an in-person runway show for its Fall / Winter 2021-22 Haute Couture collection in Paris.
Most of the fashion houses chose to continue with digital shows and presentations at the start of the sewing season, but Dior hosted two live shows.
In a way, it looked like an earlier time, before anyone ever used the term ‘social distancing’ or wore a surgical mask with Louboutin heels.
The shows took place in Dior’s favorite place, an ephemeral structure in the garden of the Rodin Museum. Street photographers jostled in front of the front door, while guest photographers gathered at the photo call inside. The guests greeted each other with aerial kisses. Several foreign accents bear witness to a return to overseas travel. There were stars: Jessica Chastain, Monica Bellucci, Cara Delevingne.
But there were differences. Guests wore masks and had their temperatures taken at the door. The seats on the bench seats were spaced further apart than usual, although this was quickly ignored, especially in the front row.
Dior’s artistic director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, frequently works with female artists. For this collection, she asked the French artist Eva Jospin to design life-size silk thread embroidery to cover the 350 square meters of the walls of the place. A nod to the Sala dei Ricami of the Colonna Palace in Rome, they represented several months of manual work by women from the Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai.
The walls were a reflection of the collection. They were textured, tactile garments that demanded closeness and presence. The show started off with a range of black and white checks and tweeds with matching boots – some looks embroidered with feathers for a tweed effect.
Modernized versions of the house’s iconic Bar jacket have been paired with pleated wrap skirts and tailored pants. Outerwear was a major theme, such as a cashmere coat with patchwork embroidery. For the evening, the models wore long ethereal dresses of pleated silk in soft tones of mustard, plaster or Dior gray.
After more than a year of virtual catwalks broadcast online, the question has arisen as to whether live fashion shows are even necessary. On Monday, Dior used craftsmanship and materiality to make a compelling case in their favor.
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