All you need to know

The Paris Fashion Week Spring 2023 season is just getting started and typically Dior is the first big home to get things started. Every time the brand presents its new collection, there’s guaranteed to be a subtle new play on creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s intellectual messaging, as well as a star-studded front row. This year there was also an immersive castle setting and striking dancers. Read on to find out all about the Dior Spring 2023 show.

Catherine de Medici served as muse

Artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri has long been influenced by powerful feminist muses. For Spring 2023, she dedicated her collection to Catherine de’ Medici, the powerful 16th-century ruler who clearly had her own perspective and did things her own way. Medici was of course one of the first to adopt high heels and the corset. Here, her three-decade reign of power was reinterpreted through sumptuous baroque-gothic outfits replete with hoop skirts, golden gloves, architectural corsets, black lace and medieval embroidered flowers.

Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage

The structure and silhouette were definitely more directional than what we’ve seen from Chiuri in the past, and in many ways also offered more of a fantasy-fueled storytelling element than her recent collections. Right down to the dancers and even a strong soundtrack featuring Björk, the entire collection hinted at strong silhouettes through the female gaze. This includes the dresses – which swayed towards the softer side of the 16th century, presented through bloomers and little stockings – as well as the more modern and slightly apocalyptic Gothic looks, with their epic folds of lace trailing down the catwalk. The air of regal luxury was only helped by all these embellishments, including romantic carnations, bows and flowery surface decoration. Chiuri says she was also inspired by a map of Paris, which she printed on a 1950s Dior scarf.

Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage

Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage

Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage

The set was a medieval castle, reinvented

Entering the atmospheric venue built in the middle of the Jardin des Tuileries, guests witnessed a vast sculptural castle made of cardboard and emphasizing the duality between artifice and reality, in the middle of the track. Artist Eva Jospin designed the installation and drew inspiration from the Buttes Chaumont cave in Paris, the Villa Borromeo Visconti Litta in Lombardy and the frescoes of the Palazzina Cinese in Palermo.

Photo by Kristy Sparrow/Getty Images

Photo by Kristy Sparrow/Getty Images

The dancers invaded the room

Dutch choreographers and brother-sister dance duo Imre van Opstal and Marne van Opstal opened the show with an interpretive dance performance that moved around the track and across the set. Coinciding with the theme of the collection, the wildly expressive choreography drew inspiration from the Renaissance, reinterpreting the idea of ​​rebirth through harmonious movements and sculptural forms.

Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage

Photo by Kristy Sparrow/Getty Images

K-Pop Glitterati topped the top spot

All eyes were on the K-pop stars at Dior. Blackpink’s Jisoo and Astro’s Cha Eun-woo sat front row and drew massive crowds, all of whom lined up for hours before the show started, just to catch a glimpse of each star entering or leaving the venue.

Jisoo attends the Dior Spring 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 27, 2022 in Paris, France.

Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images

Cha Eun-woo attends the Dior Spring 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 27, 2022 in Paris, France.

Photo by Pierre Suu/Getty Images

The makeup reflected the mood…and was inspired by a model who walked the show

Makeup artist Peter Philips has created a remixed, crossed, brushed cat eye. It was exactly the kind of powerful beauty statement a modern-day Catherine de’ Medici would have made, given her affinity for using fashion and beauty as a tool of power and self-expression. The look was also inspired by the real-life makeup worn by Stella Lucia, one of the many cool girl models who walked the runway.

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