Alexandre Vauthier mixes elegant minimalism and high octane glamor
Alexandre Vauthier is a designer well equipped to approach our cultural moment. Her clothes are, after all, the epitome of sex appeal-laden glamor, the kind women find themselves drawn to in the post-Covid “revenge” era. She’s the designer of choice for women who want to be watched, who feel most confident in a razor-short mini skirt and towering stiletto heels. For Spring / Summer 2022, a collection that Vauthier unveiled via a Karim Sadli lens lookbook, rather than a runway, he gave his client much more to savor.
The collection was an offering of 22 tight looks, some of which were tailored for the office – oversized striped suits, ’80s-style boxy leather blazers, voluminous waist-cinched trench coats – others that were less so. Embellished chainmail dresses, strapless sequined cocktail dresses with marabou feather trims and daring wrap tops in a bold shade of cyan, all added to the ‘Roaring 20s’ spirit to which the designers have quietly referred to this season. From Prada, where Miuccia Prada Raf Simons ushered in a new era of “neo-sensuality” with leather mini-skirts and boneless corsets, to trench coats exposing Riccardo Tisci’s bottoms at Burberry.
Vauthier also made some unexpected additions to the lineup. An oversized coat covered in hand-dyed ostrich feathers and studded with crystals was the undeniable standout piece (critics have suggested it will sell “in the five-figure range”), a slightly more absurd and irreverent version of the usual definition of “after dark”. ‘ get dressed. Vauthier told reporters the Covid-19 pandemic predictably had a financial impact on his eponymous label, but was quick to assert that the past 18 months had unexpected benefits for his creativity. “During the crisis, we obviously lost money,” he told French. SHE. “But in terms of creativity, I found it to be very beneficial. It totally boosted me. We love to see a silver lining embellished with rhinestones wherever we can.